Therese’s Legacy Above the Clouds: A Queer Couple Reclaims the Austrian Countryside

Io Tondolo and Itshe Petz have opened Austria's first queer hotel in February 2024.

TRAHÜTTEN: It was one of those nights when the sun's heat lingered in the asphalt, filling the air with its oily scent, that I met Io Tondolo and Itshe Petz at Marea Alta, a queer bar in Vienna. They sported long beards and were dressed identically, reminiscent of the artist duo Gilbert and George. I learned they had just opened Austria's first queer hotel, nestled in the mountains near Graz, and that they hosted a variety of queer events—even those specifically for lesbians. I was immediately intrigued.

My post-Vienna plans to visit Italy were thwarted by a predicted Roman heatwave. The following week, however, I found myself on a train to the Absteige zur Bärtigen Therese, Io and Itshe's queer hotel. I spent several days there, high in the mountains, knowing nothing about the place beforehand. It felt like stepping onto a film set, perhaps partly because the house once belonged to Io's grandmother. They've retained many of her belongings, transforming them with new shapes, forms, and colors.

Each room possesses a unique character, featuring art, living plants, and distinct tapestries. The design layers multiple eras, and every element reflects Io and Itshe's distinct visions—a blend of politics, soul, and aesthetics. In fact, the interior design is a work of art in itself; a house brimming with expression and belief. It has ten rooms in various sizes for guests and a library area; books are present in many rooms and are open to all guests. I can barely describe the sheer luxury of finding books dedicated to lesbian lifestyles.

Absteige zur Bärtigen Therese is full of beautiful details, such as these books. Io Tondolo and Itshe Petz have a large collection of books, mostly on LGBTQ+ topics.

Upon arrival, I was completely stressed. I'd been on the road for two weeks, constantly meeting new people and exploring new places. My body ached; I could barely walk. On my first morning, I went to the dining room, gazed out at the valley view, and watched as Io served me breakfast—eggs with intensely yellow yolks and unparalleled flavor, sourced from a nearby gay-owned farm. I was so struck by the scene that I sat in silence, sipping my coffee. My conclusion: this is the place I'll remember when I doubt humanity.

The following interview took place at the Absteige zur Bärtigen Therese on June 25th at 11:10 a.m.

Gry: What's the story behind your names?

Io: We chose our own gender-neutral names. Itshe represents "it," "she," and "he," while Io is either Jupiter's moon or "I" in Italian. Therefore, our names are agender. We use our mothers' maiden names as surnames to break the cycle of patriarchy, where one traditionally takes the father's name.

After celebrating local Pride, Io Tondolo and Itshe Petz decided late that evening it was time for a photoshoot with artist Christoph Skoff to promote an upcoming event.

Gry: How would you describe yourselves?

Io: We are artist designers and hotel directors with backgrounds in fine arts, performance art, and interior design. We host and create events, and we also perform. As an artistic expression, we've dressed alike for six years. We identify as non-binary drag kings. To summarize: we are an artist couple, a business couple, and a love couple.

Gry: Why did you open the Absteige zur Bärtigen Therese?

Io: We'd heard many queer city dwellers recount their negative experiences in the countryside: "It was a nightmare! We escaped the countryside as children because of the discrimination and hatred. We couldn't find a welcoming place there."

This is a corner of the dining room. Much of the furniture is from Io Tondolo's grandmother's collection and has been creatively remade.

Itshe: Our goal was to reconnect queer people with nature, providing a safe space for art, culture, relaxation, and friendship.

Io: For centuries, the church preached that being queer is unnatural. Queer people were portrayed as being outside of nature. This is demonstrably false, as countless plant and animal species exhibit diverse understandings of gender. This diaspora of queer people from the countryside, coupled with discrimination, created a huge gap between nature and queer culture. Our goal is to invite queer people back to the countryside and help them rediscover that connection.

Gry: I was surprised to learn how much LGBTQ+ activity is happening locally. Nearby is Weiberhof, a lesbian-run women's holiday farm; the Wertschach/Dvorče inn in the Gailtal valley, run by a queer collective; and even the recent Pride celebration took place at the home of the mayor, who is openly gay. Were you aware of this when you moved here?

Io: Yes it’s growing! More and more queer people are returning to and revitalizing rural communities. It's a queer comeback!

Itshe: We love it because it helps us connect with more queer people in the countryside, build community, and support each other.

Gry: I was amazed that Pride was held at the mayor's house! It was also heartwarming to see so many villagers, not all of them LGBTQ+, showing their support.

Io: Yes, they were supporting the cause, and the mayor personally.

Itshe: We do the same here. We invite villagers to our art events, brunches, and barbecues. We're open to non-queer people and to having conversations about these issues. Initially, we thought we'd be queer-only, but we realized that creating a ghetto wasn't ideal.

Io: When you're too hidden, people start imagining things. It's better to be in contact and talk about it.

The bare patches on the walls commemorate queer people unable to live openly in the past and symbolize those who still cannot today. The empty spaces convey the message: "You are always with us."

Itshe: They do anyway, but open communication helps create an atmosphere where people can connect and overcome fears and prejudices.

Io: We do, however, prioritize our guests' desired dates. Sometimes we have events reserved for queer people or lesbians. In such cases, we may decline other requests. We had a request from a gay couple who wanted to come on a women-only weekend. We explained that it was exclusively for women. They understood.

Gry: You named the hotel "Absteige zur Bärtigen Therese." Who is Therese?

Itshe: Therese is a fictional character, a kind of invented ancestor for queer people. She represents all the ancestors erased from history—those who disappeared, worked, died, and were imprisoned to pave the way for our freedom. She's a character with her own language. She is bearded and proud of it.

Io: We also have the "Queer Wall of Fame," a constantly evolving artwork on the house's facade. We invite the community to nominate their queer heroes. We'll put their photos, names, and short biographies on the wall—honoring our ancestry and creating a protective shield around the house with the power of our ancestors.

Guests can unwind, read, and connect in this room. A staircase tucked into a corner leads to a small, inviting library featuring a collection of LGBTQ+ books.

Gry: Can you tell me something about your regularly scheduled women only events?

Io:
Yes, one of our best friends, a lesbian activist and DJ, has been organizing 'Women's Cafe' parties for years—women-only events at various locations. We asked her if she wanted to host our Women Weekends for lesbian, bisexual, transgender, and heterosexual women.

Gry: Why is it important to have women-only weekends?

Itshe: We spoke with lesbians who expressed a desire for women-only gatherings. We want to make lesbian life more visible and give them space to create their own environment.

Io: Lesbians are a vital part of the queer community. We listened to a podcast by Manuela Kay (editor-in-chief of LMAG, a major German-speaking lesbian magazine). She highlighted the lack of exclusive spaces for lesbians and other women. We want to provide that, even though we're not the target group. We have reservations for the first weekend and hope for more bookings. We're planning women's summer and winter weekends, as well as women's brunches and barbecues for day trips.

Itshe: People who live nearby can come for a day without staying overnight.

Io: Currently, we're helping with cooking and breakfast, but in the future, we want to find a woman to take over that aspect so we can fully step back.

Itshe: We're open to other suggestions for lesbian-focused events. Lesbians who want to organize a summer camp or other activities can contact us.

Gry: Yesterday, you mentioned you are attracting many interesting people. Can you elaborate?

Itshe: We had a wonderful experience with a father whose 18-year-old son had transitioned. He wanted a safe space for his son. It was heartwarming to see parents actively seeking welcoming environments. We also hosted a cross-dresser who needed a safe space to express themselves outside of their usual life. We've also had queer people from the countryside who are closeted and wanted a place to relax and be themselves for a while before returning to their lives. This was something we hadn't initially considered.

Io: We also had a fantastic lesbian couple arrive on their motorcycle.

Gry: How did you connect with them?

Io: A journalist from Germany's second-largest newspaper wrote about us ("The House of Fantasy"). This couple read the article, saw the picture of the road, and realized it was a great place for bikers. They traveled six hours by motorcycle; we didn't even know they were coming.

The simplicity of this table, situated just outside the dining room, complements the hotel's commitment to providing guests with private spaces

Gry: They didn't call ahead?

Io:
No, we knew they were coming, but not how they'd arrive. Then they appeared in front of the house in their leather gear.

Itshe: We were so happy!

Io: It's a dream to have the entire parking lot full of motorcycles—"dykes on bikes!"

Itshe: We're open to hearing people's ideas for a queer space—what it should be like for them. It's an ongoing research process.

Gry: I love how you designed the place. Can you tell me about your process?

Itshe: Io's grandmother left a lot of furniture, so the house was completely furnished. We wondered what to do with it all. Since we often recycle and reuse materials in our designs, we decided to see which pieces could be repurposed or repainted. We moved things around, spending time in different rooms to get a feel for the space.

Artist Christoph Skoff, who performs as Gloria Hole, is Austria's most famous drag queen and a frequent performer and visitor at Absteige zur Bärtigen Therese.

Io: We even slept in almost every room to see how the morning light fell and where best to place the beds. Bed placement is crucial; if the bed faces the door, it can disrupt sleep due to a subconscious flight instinct. We carefully considered this. We also used the old single beds, constructing new ones from the original materials. We used a collection of old TVs as nightstands. My grandmother had wallpaper in every room—a bit much, but beautiful in its own way. We tried to retain elements of the old style while incorporating a new aesthetic. Importantly, we have plants in every room, which is unusual for a hotel. We believe plants improve air quality and humidity and add life to the space.

Gry: Can you feel Io's grandmother's presence?

Itshe: I can, even though I never knew her. When Io and I arrived, sorting through her belongings was difficult; it felt like she was still living here. It was surreal—sheets and everything. The house had been rented out for twenty years, but it was as if she'd never left. It wasn't a negative energy, just… overwhelming. I boxed everything up and we decided what to keep.

Io: You were very careful and respectful. I feel her spirit.

Nature lovers will appreciate the hotel's location, surrounded by numerous hiking trails and boasting a large garden. The hotel is located 55 km from Graz.

Itshe: And I feel her support. She seems pleased that we're caring for her house, using it, repairing things, and bringing people here. She worked so hard for this house, her whole life. It would have been sad to see it sold.

Io: Maybe that's why it wasn't sold—her influence, perhaps. I'm sure she's happy we're here. She was a remarkable woman. She was a feminist in her own way. After my patriarchal policeman grandfather died, she ran a women-only space for thirty years, employing only women and organizing workshops for village women. Many were in unhappy marriages, so she provided them with a space for freedom, connection, and sisterhood. She also hosted weekly women's gatherings for cards, drinks, and socializing. Even the strictest husbands couldn't object, as they often came for beers on other days. It was a safe space for women.

Itshe: I think she was very proud of it. Hearing the story of how her husband forbade her from swimming and driving was heartbreaking. But after his death…

Io: …the first thing she did was get her driver's license, needing it to run her business and shop. The second was to take swimming lessons. From then until she died, she swam twice a year in the Atlantic Ocean.

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